It's a Helluva Town

Today was our annual family pilgrimmage to see The Tree.

DP and her family have been visiting the Rockefeller Tree and other Midtown Christmas sights for years and we've now made it one of our own family's traditions. We almost didn't go because of the weather and the illness of Goo, their uncle, but we decided this morning to strike while the iron was hot and go.

It's ironic, though, this year, because this particular tree came from a town here in Connecticut and we drove all the way into Manhattan to see it!

After our little Laurie Berkner concert adventure a month ago, we were somewhat apprehensive about going into town with the babes again. However, several things were working in our favor: there was no marathon, no time change, no set time to be anywhere, we were driving (which meant a nap on the way home) and perhaps most importantly grandparents--Ma and Gong--on hand to help.

And it was an absolutely perfect day!

The weather, for starters, was practically balmy--no wind, some sun, and a temperature of 49F as we left town. We also made it to the tree and other sights before too many other people decided it was an agreeable day to sightsee too.

The Tree: we had prepared the kiddos for the tree but how do you explain just how majestic it is? A grand statement of nature metaphorically dwarfing the towering skyscraper behind it? I always forget how blue the stringed lights are and remarked again this year that it was an awfully blue tree. But lovely, especially with the flashing strobe lights. The kiddos weren't even sure what to make of it--a "big-g-g-g-g-g-g" tree, as DS said. I think DD was a little overwhelmed by all the people and just the intensity of the city; not scared, just cautious and piercingly observant. I think she took in every detail. After the requisite (and usually mediocre) family pictures (though not in the best spot, which NBC has now greedily blocked off for its own picture-taking business), we got a closer look. DS loved the large toy soldiers playing huge instruments, which we held him up to touch. DD, meanwhile, couldn't take her eyes off the skaters and stayed once the rest of us (sans DP) moved on to watch the Zamboni. I had a few moments to myself to browse the Met shop, the closest I'll get to the museum this year, and found a colorful pop-up book on Christmas in the city. There were lots of great children's things upstairs but too bulky and too overpriced to buy there.

Teuschers: This is another DP family tradition, purchasing champagne truffles at the Swiss chocolatiers' precious, floral-encased boutique. Ma and Gong got the children some chocolate-covered fruit, but DD insisted on the chocolate fish. Which she proceeded to carry with her, in their little cellophane bag, as a totem of protection (replacing Shirt which stayed in the car with Mr. Big Pengy--ask me later) for the whole day (at one point, when approaching a waterfall fountain, she even gently hid it behind her back). Without taking a bite. I got an assortment of single candies. I've already tried my jasmine truffle (intriguing and good--I love the smell but never tried the flavor), my zebra gianduja with its marvelous hazelnut flavor, orange truffle (a favorite, as is anything orange and dark chocolate), plus the florentine (which is more like a cookie with candied fruit and nuts) and a hazelnut crunch. YUM! And I haven't even touched the champagne truffles yet. I hope this is one family tradition that stays around for a long time.

Saks windows: The lines were long so we stayed outside the barrier, which was no problem at all. The kids liked watching the snow people cavorting, especially the window where the snowpeople take Manhattan--complete with cab, subway, Rockettes, traffic cop (they didn't seem to pause a moment when they heard him holler stop), and the like. DP liked it so much she went to get the book on which it was based but it had nothing about NYC so she didn't buy it.

St. Patrick's Cathedral: Despite DP's own personal falling out with the Catholic church, we did go inside. DD and DS were immediately drawn to the rows upon rows of candles. So, in our UU way of appreciating our Judeo-Christian forebears, we lit a few in honor and hope and healing for our friend in Chicago, my sister's soon-to-be father-in-law who is terminally ill, their families, and other people we know in need. We could've lit every tea light in the place, so excited about playing with fire was DS. We looked around a little (I think I haven't been in a Catholic Church since all the pictures of John Paul II have been replaced by Benedict), sat in a pew, and admired the architecture, but then decided, goaded by DS, that it was time to see the train.

The Train: This is one Christmas tradition in NYC that I knew nothing about until DP started working in the area when we first moved back to the East Coast. In the Citicorp Center, on a lower level usually reserved for eating from the surrounding take out areas, they have installed a humongous model train display for the last 20 years (which explains why DP knew nothing about it from her own childhood). I'm not even sure I can describe the thing so I include a link.
Basically, the set up mimics a 1950s train ride from Westchester through the Catskills up to the Adirondacks, encompassing the four seasons and the change from morning to dusk to nighttime. There are something like 30 trains in different scales to give perspective on 19 tracks. It is fantastic. And DS was in heaven. Ma and Gong patiently scooted him along the rail in the crowds, pointing out the infinite details. Apparently, he was pointing most of the little bits--a school bus, the pumpkins, the snowball fight around the snowman--to them. He loved it. I see a hobby in our future. Which will be great, except DD was ready to see more real city about halfway through. DP kept her occupied while I watched the bags.

Lunch: Forgive me, oh internet foodies, but we ate at Burger Heaven (my dear Lambeth, I think you and I ate at this very one). And I had chicken fingers. And fries. And rice pudding. And it was delicious. The kids started with fruit salad, then chicken fingers and fries. DS devoured pickles, cooked onions, and tomato slices (apparently just like Ma's ma) while DD, after my own self, couldn't get her face far enough away when presented with a tomato slice. The kiddos were great during the whole meal, which ended with red jello for them. It was sophisticated food, or even that diverse, but we all had a good time. And that's what it's all about. Besides, we eat ethnic at home!

Carousel Horses: No, we didn't ride the carousel in Central Park, nor even the little one in Bryant Park right now. Instead we went to the carousel horse exhibition at the American Folk Art Museum. To sum it up, this exhibition draws parallels between the wood carving traditions in the Jewish shtetls of Eastern Europe and the intricate wooden carousel horses of the more secular amusements in the U.S. As I think I've stated, I love carousels and have even read some of the history, but never anything like this and was just thrilled by the connections being made--it was visually stunning, with all the Torah Crowns and papercut outs next to the actual Illions and other carousel horses. Of course, DD and DS wanted to ride them, but they did get to touch the one carousel horse head that was for that purpose. They really responded to folk art mainly because it featured identifiable subjects--animals, trains, household goods like mailboxes--in often fanciful and colorful renditions. I think their favorite object was actually the train weather vane. No surprise there, really.

Tidbits: So, what did I leave out? The kids had fun playing on the ramp of one of the numerous buildings we passed, cheering us on to come down and up it. The grownups all laughed that they would remember the ramp best. DS loved jumping around while holding Gong's hand. DD always manages to sit next to Gong during meals, and always gets him to hand feed her the choicest morsels (the rest of us try not to giggle at her power). We all liked the display of complicated student origami in the windows of the Donnell Branch of NYPL. Can't wait for Ma to teach them that. DP is totally snoring next to me now or I'd ask her to contribute her own memories of the day. Hopefully I can add them later.

Finally, we left before a breakdown, unlike that fateful Carnegie Sunday. DS was asleep before we got on the FDR, while DD chatted until we got out of the city and then fell sound asleep herself.

We counted more than 107 Christmas trees--some two to a car--on our drive home. I guess it was all the New Yorkers enjoying our Christmas trees in Connecticut, while we were enjoying their Tree in town.