Change of Season

It's in the low 70s and muggy, but I know that fall is on its way, replacing the gross, humid, and hot weather we've had for weeks now.  I think there will still be some warm days, but nothing like the 103F heat index we've been having--and the three early dismissal days we had to go with them.  The harder part was that our AC gave up in the middle of it, making for some uncomfortable time but Mama climbed up in the attic and fixed it enough to get us through.

Then last night there was a storm that ended the heat.  My paternal grandfather used to say, for Texas, that the first general rain after August 15 broke the back of summer.  I'm not sure if it's that early anymore, but we had a huge general rain here that dropped the temperatures more than 15 degrees in a matter of minutes.  Bud and I marveled at the noise; Sis was at the farm, safe and helping to comfort the horses.  Mama was commuting home.  It was almost deafening!  We watched both the lightning and Lightning Tracker, which showed bolts hitting almost on top of us, behind the houses in the cul-de-sac and throughout town.

It's cooler today, low 70s, and humid, but delightful after the last few weeks.  I've even broken out my yarn and am starting a new blanket, using a waffle stitch, which is new to me.  It's a raffle prize for a fun run in memory of a teacher from Newtown. 

Waffle Stitch Blanket (using American crochet terms)

I Hook

Worsted yarn

dc: double crochet

fpdc: front post double crochet (yo, insert front to back around whole stitch, pull through, yo, pull through 2 on hook, yo, pull through rest on hook)

Chain 137 (or any multiple of 3+2)

ROW 1: dc in 3^rd chain from hook and all the way across. Ch 1 and turn.

ROW 2: dc in first stitch. *fpdc, dcI in next 2 st * until last stitch.  Work FPDC in last stitch and dc in ch.  Ch 1 and turn. 

ROW 3: dc in first stich.  *dc, fpdc in next 2 st* repeat to last two stitches. Work dc in last two stitches.  Ch 1 and turn. 

Repeat ROWS 2 and 3 until blanket is desired length. Be sure to end on a row 2 for a neat edge.

My Embroidery-Hoop Mandala

I finally wrote up this pattern the way I do it!!!  The original pattern is one of my favorites, the Granny Mandala from Crocheting with Raymond.  In the beginning, I would starch the mandalas with watered-down glue or Mod Podge before hanging them in my windows.  Then I decided to attach a mandala to an embroidery hoop and now that's my favorite way to do it.  Because I tend to use variegated yarn, I did not need to change colors with each round and so adapted the transition between rounds to include a slip stitch across the stitches to get to the next ch 1 space.  So the pattern is written to be used without yarn; I include a note about doing it otherwise.

I'm really pleased to have finally written this up, having made two mandala hoops this week.  Good luck!!

(It's dark so I'll add better photos tomorrow.)

Three embroidery-hoop mandalas
(the small one actually has 6 rounds, to get that light blue in,
but it is a little loose.)

Tonight's big mandala!

My Embroidery-Hoop Mandala

inspired by Crocheting with Raymond

·      any size embroidery hoop (wooden or plastic)

·      medium-weight (4) yarn (or any yarn with comparable hook)—I tend to use cotton

·      H hook

This pattern is for variegated yarn, with no yarn changes at each round.

NOTE:  If you want to change colors with each round, instead of “sl st across dc cluster and sl st into ch 1 sp”, join new color with a sl st into a 1 ch space from previous round and proceed as directed.

Size suggestions:

Small embroidery hoop:  5 rounds

Medium embroidery hoop:  8 rounds

Large embroidery hoop:  11 rounds

When you have completed your desired number of rounds:  Do NOT finish off.  See directions below to attach to hoop

US crochet terms

sc single crochet

dc double crochet

ch chain

sl st slip stitch

dc2tog  double crochet two together

yo yarn over

sp space

FO finish off

Round 1:  Make a magic ring. 3 ch (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc, *ch 1, 2 dc* repeat **  5 times (6 pairs).  Join with a sl st to 3^rd chain of  first 3 ch.  Tighten magic circle.

Round 2: :  sl st across tops of stiches to next ch 1 sp and sl st into ch 1 sp.  Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc, ch 1, dc2tog (same space), *ch 1, in next space dc2tog, ch 1, dc2tog* repeat ** in each ch 1 space until end of round, then ch 1 and join with a sl st into 3^rd ch of ch 3. (6 pairs)

[dc2tog:  yo, insert hook, pull through a loop, yo, pull yarn through 2 loops, yo, insert hook into same stitch, pull through one loop, yo, pull up 2 loops, yo, pull through 3 loops]

Round 3:   sl st across tops of stiches to next ch 1 sp and sl st into ch 1 sp.  Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc in same sp, *ch 1, into next sp 3dc* repeat ** until end of round, then ch 1 and join with a sl st into 3^rd ch of ch 3. (12 sets of 3 dc)

Round 4:  repeat round 3. (12 sets of 3 dc)

Round 5:  sl st across tops of stiches to next ch 1 sp and sl st into ch 1 sp.  Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc in same sp, *ch1, into next space 3dc, ch1, 3dc* repeat ** until end of round, then ch 1 and join with a sl st to 3rd chain of original 3ch. (24 sets of 3 dc)

Round 6:  repeat round 3. (24 sets of 3 dc)

Round 7:  repeat round 3. (24 sets of 3 dc)

Round 8:  sl st across tops of stiches to next ch 1 sp and sl st into ch 1 sp.  Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc in same space, *ch 1, into next space 3dc, ch 1, then into NEXT space 3dc, ch 1, 3dc*, repeat ** until end of round, then ch 1 and join with a sl st to 3rd chain of original 3ch.  (36 sets of 3 dc)

Round 9:  repeat round 3 (36 sets of dc)

Round 10:  repeat round 3.  (36 sets of 3 dc)

Round 11:  repeat round 3.  (36 sets of 3 dc)

Round 12:  sl st across tops of stiches to next ch 1 sp and sl st into ch 1 sp.  Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc in same space, *ch 1, into next space 3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc , ch 1, then into NEXT space 3dc, ch 1, 3dc*, repeat ** until end of round, then ch 1 and join with a sl st to 3rd chain of original 3ch.  Pattern goes 3 dc-ch 1-3dc, ch 1, 3dc, ch 1, 3dc, or increase (3dc-ch 1-3dc), ch 1, 3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc, ch 1, increase . . .

Round 13:  repeat round 3.

Round 14:  repeat round 3.

Round 15:  repeat round 3.

Round 16: repeat round 12.

To make an even larger mandala (like in a hoola hoop), do three rounds without increase and then increase the next round like round 12.

To attach to hoop:

When your mandala is the size of the inside of your hoop by stretching it a little bit,  it is done (if the mandala is too close to the edge or overlaps the hoop, it will not be tight, leading it to sag or flop.)  It will be harder to crochet around the hoop than a regular row; be patient.  Your mandala will stretch as you go and you can adjust by sliding stitches around to make it more even.

Separate your embroidery hoops and use only the inside hoop (you can do both; I like the look of doing just one so that the outside edge is just wood.) Hold mandala near the hoop and then insert the hook through a ch 1 space under the rim of the hoop, as if you are treating the hoop as the top of the ch 1 sp.  Then sc by drawing  up a long loop over the top of the hoop and completing the stitch.  Then ch 1.

*sc, ch 1* around the hoop and repeat until end of round. 

Loop:  Then ch 10 or 20 and sl st to first ch stitch to create a loop.  FO.

Mommy Hungry

Projects in Progress

I've been getting a lot of crocheting done recently, both because of the snow days and holiday and also the raffle prizes I volunteered to make.

I made a blanket for Sis's speedskating raffle, a blanket for their 6th-grade class fundraiser, a blanket for a raffle at Bud's kung fu anniversary celebration, and a blanket for a fundraiser at the historic house.  I had made blankets for their three main teachers for Christmas and also a blanket for my hospice patient.  Plus one for a friend.

Right now, I have my travel bag project--a blue-green rectangular granny square which might become a baby blanket for a teacher we know--and my couch project, which is a rainbow-y afghan in double crochet and granny clusters.

And, as we were purging the basement yesterday, I came across yarn for more projects.  Always good to have extra yarn in the house!

(I keep a collection of patterns I use here.)

Square Dancing

I've been doing a lot of crocheting in the last few weeks, with the election, loss, illness, and even just having some free time and a new tv show that I like ("Arrow," another superhero.)  Anyway, one of my projects was a king-sized rainbow granny square afghan using up my leftover yarn and some of my favorite colors of Lion Brand Homespun.   By the time it was done, it was so heavy that I had to finish the edging with the blanket on the bed!  It came out well and feels so soft.  I actually like it rumpled more than "made."  The cats like it either way.


Giant Rainbow Granny Square Afghan with Lion Brand Homespun
 This was my blanket du jour for most of 2015.  I gave several away and donated some as raffles to the historic house, including the one on the right.   

adapted from Knitterly Arts

I've removed the ch 1 sp between side sets of 3 dcs.

Rnd 1: Ch 4, join with sl st to first ch made to form ring. Ch 5 (counts as 1 dc + 2 chs),

*work 3 dc in ring, ch 2, rep from *twice more, work 2 dc in ring; join with a sl st to 

3rd ch of beg ch-5. (four ch-2 corners) DO NOT TURN WORK.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sl st into next ch-2 sp, ch 5, work 3 dc in this ch-2 sp, *ch 1

(3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp, rep from * twice more, work 2 dc in final ch-2 

sp (which is right beside the beg ch-5); join with sl st to 3rd ch of beg ch-5.

Rnd 3: Ch 1, sl st into next ch-2 sp, ch 5, work 3 dc in this ch-2 sp, *work 3dc in 

next sp (side), work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp (corner), rep from * 

twice more, work 3 dc in next sp (side), work 2 dc in final ch-2 sp 

(which is right beside the beg ch-5); join with sl st to 3rd ch of beg ch-5. 

*Continue working rounds like Rnd 3 until afghan reaches desired size.  Edge as desired.

1. Cherry Blossom (pink variegated)
2. Cotton Candy (solid pink)
3. Cherry Blossom (pink and purple with white)
4. Solid hot pink (Tulips or Peony?)
5. Ambrosia (hot pink and purple)
6. Corinthian (multicolored variegated with orange highlights)
7. Sierra (orange and brown with white)
8.  Golden (solid yellow)
9. Fiesta (green, yellow, red)
10. Herb garden (darker green)
11. Windsor (light blue)
12. (browns and blues--Pueblo?)
13.  Colonial (dark blue)
14. Celestial Stripes (dark purples and green)
15. Gothic (deep purple)
16. Mixed Berries (purple, hot pink, and white)
17. Tudor (white and multi-colored)
18. Wisteria (pinks and purples)
19. Great Plains (reds)
20. Ambrosia (hot pinks and purple)
21. Cherry blossom (pink and purple and white)
22. Parfait (pinks, whites, and creams)
23. Cotton Candy (solid pink)
24. Mimosa (pinks, oranges, blues, purples, white)
25. Coral Reef (pinks, oranges, purples)
26. Sierra (orange and brown with white)
27. Golden (solid yellow)
28. Quartz (beige with greens, pinks, purple)
29. Sundae Stripes (pink, green)?
30. Forest (green)
31. Lagoon (Blue/green)
32. Ocean (Blue, green, white)
33. Delft (blue, white)
34. Blue Mountain (blue, dark gray)
35. Purple Aster (light purple)
36. Barrington (purple)
37. Baroque (purple)
38. Vineyard (purples, yellow, green, reds)
39. Gothic (deep purple)

36 Hours in WMass

Spring Break 2016 is nearly over for us.  Today is the last day before school and we're home, playing videogames, lazing around, and enjoying a beautiful spring day.  From the couch.  Because the last day and a half were pretty packed with activities.

On Friday morning, we slept in, packed, and left for Northampton in the western corner of Massachusetts. It's a pretty and pretty easy drive north and would have been even prettier in almost any other season--spring isn't really here yet, so there's barely grass and the trees are still mainly skeletal brown.  At least there's no dirty snow anywhere.  And it's warm enough to go without a jacket in the sun.

Because of the timing, the first thing we did in this college town (home to Smith) was eat.  In fact, we ate somewhere the kids and I had eaten before--at Sylvester's, a breakfast and lunch place in an older building on one of the main drags.  It's where Gommie and I had gone with the kids and our minister many, many years ago, in 2009, when Mama was in Thailand.  Of course, the kids didn't remember it.  But it was as good as last time--clam chowder, chicken caesar salad, Irish eggs benedict (with corned beef hash), Cubano sandwich, and a bacon cheeseburger on a brioche.  And a delicious hot chocolate that Sis really enjoyed.  I hadn't realized last time that the building housed the original manufacturer of graham crackers, Dr. Sylvester Graham.  But I didn't notice any extra graham-y-ness on the menu.

The kids and I strolled the street as Mama drove a few blocks to the Hotel Northampton, a 1920s mainstay that is now an Historic Hotel of America.  We stopped at a yarn store and picked up a few skeins for a scarf.  And a felted wool sheep for Mama.  There was also a Newbury Comics store, but we didn't have time to stop because we had a few things to do before our big evening activity.

Rice Paper

Blue Morpho

Glass Wing

We went first to Magic Wings, which is a butterfly-arium--thousands of butterflies in a rainforest-like garden inside.  It was lovely, the largest one we've ever seen (including AMNH, Bronx Zoo, Norwalk Aquarium, Boston science museum.)  I do like being surrounded by butterflies.  And I "met" a few new ones--the lovely white wings with black detailing of the Rice Paper and the completely transparent and surprising wings of the Glass Wing.  There were also gorgeous Blue Morphos that flit around in indigo and violet luminescence.  But they rarely land and keep their wings open but for a split second.  So they are really hard to photograph.  And I tried.  Sis and Mama had more luck, even found a few sunning their wings open.  So, in the end, I did manage a few glorious photos.  None really landed on us this time, though, which disappoints Bud, but since they didn't land on any of us, it was ok.


Then we kicked off the warm-weather family putt-putt golf season!  And we started it with some actual time on the driving range.  Who knew hitting a ball with a driver could be so hard?  I don't think we were making contact more than 50% of the time!  But it was fun.  Putt putt was better, though, more our speed (and by "our," I mean "their"--I just watch.)  We had the course almost completely to ourselves and had fun comparing strokes to par.  I'd say they were mostly at par.  Sis even got two holes-in-one!

And then it was time to go to our Owl Prowl at a nature center in Canton, CT.  We got there early, but Mama had to rush out for flashlights (the lady on the phone had said not to bring anything; the leader of the group said we needed them.)  She missed our first foray outside, when we visited the habitats of the rescued owls and then actually saw at a distance of about 20 yards the silhouette of a Barred Owl in a tree.  We watched for a few minutes before it flew off.  Mama got back in time to hear the presentation on North American owls and we definitely needed the flashlights in the dark woods behind the center.  Our leader has perfected the Barred Owl call, something akin to "who cooks for you?" he said.  And one of the center's rescued Barred Owls responded (the leader could recognize the owl Harry's slightly warped call.)  But then a symphony arose as at least one wild owl if not more joined Harry in song.  Gorgeous.  And you could still hear it deep into the woods as we saw where some owls used to nest in an old sycamore and then went into the meadow and looked at the stars, still hearing some of the symphony back and forth.  Really quite magical.


It was late by the time we left and so we grabbed fast food and headed back to our hotel, having a good night's sleep before the east-facing windows brightened the room (worst room-darkening curtains ever.)  We had a leisurely continental breakfast downstairs--some pretty good glazed cinnamon bear claws--and eventually left the hotel for our Saturday's big activity:  Patriot's Day celebration and programming at Historic Deerfield.  We had never been to the house museums that make up Historic Deerfield, thinking they were rather dry house museum tours focusing on obscure genealogies and decorative arts, but there were many other things going on to mark the anniversary of the "shot heard round the world" at Lexington and Concord. We made "liberty" tea bags with mint and lemon balm, talked to a docent about powder horn carving (which I compared to scrimshaw and was vehemently corrected.  I still say the crafts are similar--they're both carving on bone), and had a very lively interaction with the docents doing the cooking demo, who both discussed making drinking chocolate and then actually demonstrated how they made a coal bed for a baking kettle and put hot coals on the lid!  Really very interesting, even though I'd heard it described a dozen times.  Then we visited just one house because, indeed, we were right--a dry-as-dirt PAID docent droning on about clocks and wallpaper and portraits to ten-year-olds. Mercy, if I were the education director . . . .  We rushed off to the encampment where Sis enjoyed seeing a weapons demo on horseback--Mama and I learned about the efficacy of a sharp steel blade back by an 800 lb horse and a 200 lb man with gear--as the re-enactor said, he doesn't even have to exert much effort to be deadly (we laughed about how he decapitated that bad ol' Tory Watermelon in his demo!  I think you had to be there.)  I liked seeing the women cooking cornbread and beef stew outside.  And I LOVE the fife and drum music played by the Nathan Hale Ancient Fife and Drum Corps.  We also enjoyed our wagon ride up and down the preserved street, enjoying all the 18th-century houses.

And lunch was good, too!  We had a very tasty repast at Champney's in the Deerfield Inn, with French onion soup, chowder, a charcuterie, fish and chips, fried calamari, and poutine with maple pulled pork.  Mmm, mmm good.  While we were eating, the re-enactor rider from Lexington arrived announcing the beginning of hostilities at Lexington and Concord and General Gage's maneuvers.  The kids and I watched from the porch of the inn as the rider encouraged the captain to call up the local militia and then everyone marched off.  But instead of going to war, we went back to lunch.


Winding up our trip, we stopped at Richardson's for some ice cream (mmmm, purple cow and burnt-sugar and butter, which tastes like maple) and chocolates.  And we went to Webs, the largest yarn store in the country, which I had shopped online (at yarn.com) but didn't know was in Northampton!  Ooooh, what a place!  So many wonderful colors and textures.  So much temptation.  I chose a few skeins to make mandalas but didn't have an exact project in mind to go buying a dozen skeins.  I did learn about their line of Valley yarns, in all the different weights and lovely colors.  I'll be dreaming of things to make with those (I even took some photos so I could remember which weights I liked.)

Lastly, we stopped for Tibetan food at our favorite restaurant halfway home.  We got there just at 5 and so didn't have to wait as we usually do.  Another great meal:  mango dhara drinks, iced chai, avocado potato salad, spicy noodles (Thukpa Dhrangmo), chicken with noodles and veg (Gyathuk Ngopa), dumpling soup (Mokthuk), fried dumplings (Sha Momo), fried bread (Bhaklep), steamed bread (Tingmo), and vinegary slaw (Dhang-tsel.)  So, so good.  And the perfect end to another great 36 hour vacation!

At least we have today to ease into the work week tomorrow . . . .

Crocheting All Along

In honor of Crochet (or Craft) Month, I'm posting my favorite crochet patterns, the ones I've used most often and one that I designed myself.  The last year has been a great period of learning for me (see my post last summer)--I've added stitches (half-double crochet, increases, decreases, foundation single and foundation double crochet) and other skills (like better weaving in, Magic Ring and the Invincible Knot, new borders) many of which I learned from Craftsy.com  I've also picked up new ideas from the Crochet Crowd, Attic 24, and the Daily Crochet FB page.  I'm even branching out from Lion Brand Homespun and experimenting with different yarn weights, including DK or sport weight for a huge Sunny Granny Stripe blanket.  So, right now, it's my Crochet Golden Age (thus far) and I'm enjoying every minute of it.


(Only downside:  we still haven't made any Amigurumi!)

The Original Prayer Shawl
*my adaptation
I have made these for friends in crisis and grief, as well as for our church pastoral care committee and my hospice organization.  I made my first prayer shawl back in 2005,  having attended a workshop with the original founders of the ministry.
approx. 1,000 yds yarn (I use 5-6 skeins Lion Brand Homespun)
I use hook size M
ch enough to equal desired width (I usually measure on my arms, wrist to wrist, between 60-70")
do first row of sc, then three rows of dc, then repeat 1 sc/3 dc row pattern
work shawl until it is desired length (usually about 24-36")






Victory Shawl
I like the "v-stitch" and have used it for shawls and blankets.
approx. 600 yds chunky yarn (measures approx 20 x 60"
ch 132 (multiple of 3 + 6)
Row 1:  Work V-stitch in 6th ch from hook.  *sk 2 ch, dc, ch 1, dc in next ch.  Rep from * to last 3 ch, sk 2 ch, dc in last ch.  Ch 3, turn (42 V-stitches + 2 dc)
Row 2:  Work dc, ch 1, dc in each ch-1 sp across, dc in top of t-ch.  Ch 3, turn.
Repeat for 20+ rows or desired width.

(I recently made this with M hook and Lion Brand Thick and Quick Homespun, for which I ch 66+6 or 72.  It used 3 1/2 skeins, with shell border, for a nice sized lap afghan.)

Take-Away Afghan for Mama Teacher
I made my first take-away afghan for us, working on it during our commute to NYC in 2003 or so.  Ours was teal and magenta, took me forever.

pattern by Donna Kooler, with adaptations in yarn and hook size (and thus gauge and stitch count)

6 skeins Lion Brand homespun in one color A
3 skeins Lion Brand homespun in another color B
Size M hook

Ch 15, sc in 3rd ch from hook.  *Ch 1, skip 1 ch, and sc in next ch*.  Rep across ending in top of ch 2 turning st:  7 sc and 6 ch 1 spaces.  *Ch 2  Turn.  Sc in first ch 1 sp, ch 1 and sc in each ch 1 sp across ending in top of ch 2 turning st*.  Rep until you have 52 row or strip measures 44".  Make 15 strips altogether.

Assembly:  Align bottom edges of two strips with WS tog ad attach Color B to bottom row with a sl st.  Sc in next st, *ch 1, skip 1 st and sc in next*.  Rep to top of strips, cut yarn and weave in ends.  Rep until all strips are joined

Edging:  Attach Color B yard at any outside point with a sl st and *ch 1, skip 1 sc and sc in next st*.  Rep all around afghan.  Put 3 sc in each corner so it will lay flat.  After completing Color B edge, join with a sl st, cut yarn, and FO.  Weave in ends.

My Simple One-Skein Scarf

With M hook, ch 10

Row 1: sc in 2nd stitch from hook and in each ch across

Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across,

Row 3 etc.: repeat Row 2 until scarf is the desired length, fasten off and weave in ends.

Mommy Hungry


My Standard Baby Blanket
(about the size of a small receiving blanket)
Usually, I do an all-white blanket before the birth and add an appropriately-colored edge afterwards (because most people like pink or blue but don't find out the sex in advance). If I know the sex in advance, I sometimes add extra stripes.
Size M hook
2+ skeins of chunky yarn (I'm using Baby Cloud)

Ch enough to make about 2' or desired width
Sc until desired length
Either sc edging (making 3-4 laps) or shell (Attach yarn with sc at beginning of row. *Skip 2 sts, work 5 dc in next st, sk 2 sts, work 1 sc in next st. Repeat from *).

Plain Blanket

Left:  Just plain double crochet in Lion Brand Wool-Ease until it was the right size, then edged in same stitch of differently-colored yarn.

 Large Granny Square Afghan

This was my blanket du jour for most of 2015.  I gave several away and donated some as raffles to the historic house, including the one on the right.  
adapted from Knitterly Arts

I've removed the ch 1 sp between side sets of 3 dcs.

Rnd 1: Ch 4, join with sl st to first ch made to form ring. Ch 5 (counts as 1 dc + 2 chs),

*work 3 dc in ring, ch 2, rep from *twice more, work 2 dc in ring; join with a sl st to 

3rd ch of beg ch-5. (four ch-2 corners) DO NOT TURN WORK.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sl st into next ch-2 sp, ch 5, work 3 dc in this ch-2 sp, *ch 1

(3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp, rep from * twice more, work 2 dc in final ch-2 

sp (which is right beside the beg ch-5); join with sl st to 3rd ch of beg ch-5.

Rnd 3: Ch 1, sl st into next ch-2 sp, ch 5, work 3 dc in this ch-2 sp, *work 3dc in 

next sp (side), work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp (corner), rep from * 

twice more, work 3 dc in next sp (side), work 2 dc in final ch-2 sp 

(which is right beside the beg ch-5); join with sl st to 3rd ch of beg ch-5. 

*Continue working rounds like Rnd 3 until afghan reaches desired size.  Edge as desired.

Giant Mitered Granny Square Afghan

This was a variant on the regular giant Granny Square, but I wasn't pleased that it didn't "square up," not sure why not. 
I'm not great at writing patterns, esp Round 3, 4, and 5.
K hook
Lion Brand Homespun Ocean

Rnd 1: Ch 4, join with sl st to first ch made to form ring. Ch 5 (counts as 1 dc + 2 chs),

*work 3 dc in ring, ch 2, rep from *twice more, work 2 dc in ring; join with a sl st to 

3rd ch of beg ch-5. (four ch-2 corners) DO NOT TURN WORK.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sl st into next ch-2 sp, ch 5, work 3 dc in this ch-2 sp, *ch 1

(3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp, rep from * twice more, work 2 dc in final ch-2 

sp (which is right beside the beg ch-5); join with sl st to 3rd ch of beg ch-5.  Ch 3.

Rnd 3:  3 dc in same space; 3 dc in the space between the 2 groups of 3 dc of the previous row; 3dc, ch2, 3dc in next ch 3 corner space; 3 dc in the space between 3 dc; dc and then ch3 in the next last space.  Turn.

Rnd 4:  3 dc in space between 2 groups of 3 dc of previous row; 3 dc in each space until corner; in corner space, 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc; 3 dc between groups until end space between 3 dc; and then ch 3 in last space (between chain and 3 dc below).  Turn.

Rnd 5 etc:  Work Rnd 3 and 4 repeatedly as if these are rows, turning at ends with ch 3 and working 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc at corner.  Finish off.

Edge:  Work 3 dc in every space on all four sides.  Then work sc in every space on all four sides.  Work SHELL (*sc, skip 2 sp, 5 dc, skip 2 sp* repeat).  Then edge with chain stitch (or whatever you want to call it--not quite a sc:  insert yarn in sp, pull through, yo, pull through both stitches)

Adapted from Crochet Again

My Granny Ripple Lap Afghan
I should've made this wider, with one more point, so maybe chain 105.

Lion Brand Homespun

K hook

Ch 79 (or a multiple of 26 + 1; each set of 26 gives you another peak)

Row 1:  Ch 4 and work 3 dc in 5th ch from hook.  (*ch 1, sk 2 st, 3 dc* twice; sk 2 st.  Work peak:  3dc, ch 2, 3dc in same st.  *ch 1, sk 2 st, 3 dc* twice; sk 2 st.  Work valley:  3dctog, sk 3 st, 3 dctog)  Work entire pattern inside () to end of row (ending on halfway up "peak.")  Then ch 1 and dc, turn.

Row 2:  Ch 4

Repeat  to make afghan.

Granny Rectanglar Afghan

M Hook

Thick and Quick Homespun

Chain 25, 4th Chain from Hook, DC 3 times into the same stitch, *Skip 2 chains, DC 3 times into next. Repeat * to the 3rd chain before the end. Slip Stitch to the 1st chain to create a loop at the end. Middle section of your afghan is now ready to begin doing the regular granny square concept.

Chain 3, 2 DC into the ch-2 gap (partial 1st corner made), Ch 1, (3 DC, Ch 2, 3 DC) into the same ch-2 gap (1st side and 2nd corner made). *Ch 1, 3 DC into the next gap. Repeat from * all the way to the end ch-2 gap (2nd side). In the end gap, 3 DC, CH 2, 3 DC, Ch 1, 3 DC, 2 CH, 3 DC (3rd side and 3rd & 4th corners made). *Ch 1, 3 DC into next gap. Repeat from * along the same side (4th side).   My transitions to the next row ended up differently.  I would finish the 3DC in the ch-1 sp before the corner, ch-1, slip stitch to next 3DC in corner, ch-1, skip 2 stitches and slip stitch, ch 3, 2DC, ch 2, 3DC and keep going (the way I work mandala rounds.)

When you get to the last corner, (partial 1st corner), finish the corner with 3 DC, CH 2, and then slip stitch to the top of the chain 3.  

With each round, the middle sections between the corners get wider. In any Ch-1 Gap Space between the corners, we will always put in 3 DC followed by a Ch 1. Follow the same concepts in step 2 for beginning your round and handling your corners.

Finish your afghan when you get to the size that you desire.

Edging:  With edging color, slip stitch into corner ch-2 space, *ch 4, attach to next ch-1 space with slip st.*  Repeat **.  Treat corners like ch-1 spaces.

adapted from Crochet Crowd

6-Day Ripple Child's Blanket

I'm working on this one right now, with Caron Cakes and an I hook.  See pattern here.

Outlander "Sassenach" Cowl

Best with chunky yarn, I made this pink one for a friend's daughter and then made two for me:  one plain cream one for my Outlander cosplay and one with a variety of colors for birdwatching.
from Polly Foo Foo on Ravelry

I foundation double crocheted 50 stitches to make mine wider.  Then I worked the pattern till it was about 12" high.

Crazy Stitch/Shell Stitch

This one was for Mojjito the cat.  I find that I can make small receiving blankets for him to try out new patterns.

From How Do I CrochetBegin with a chain, in multiples of three, plus one extra. For example, 15 plus 1, or 18 plus 1, or 21 plus 1. Make 3 double crochet in the 4th stitch from the hook.

Skip the next 3 stitches, single crochet in the next stitch.
*Chain 3

Make 3 double crochet in the same stitch, skip the next 3 stitches, single crochet in the next stitch.

Repeat from * across the row. End with a single crochet.

2nd ROW:
Chain 3 and turn. Make 3 double crochet in the single crochet of the previous row. (The same stitch as the chain 3 just made.)

Single crochet in the next chain 3 space. (You will find it on the opposite side of the next double crochet cluster of the previous row.)

*Chain 3, make 3 double crochet in the same chain 3 space. Single crochet in the next chain 3 space.

Repeat from * across the row.
3. Repeat the 2nd Row until your achieve the required size of your project.

Corner to Corner Crochet, from Red Heart
I like the diagonal stripes and how quickly it works up in chunky yarn.  If using Lion Brand Thick and Quick Homespun, you need M hook and 5 skeins for lap afghan with picot or shell edge (about 1/2 skein will be leftover.)

To change color in dc: Work last dc before color change until 2 loops are left on hook, drop color in use, with
next color to be used draw through 2 loops on hook and continue with new color.
With CA, ch 6.
Row 1 (Right Side): Dc in 4th ch from hook and in next 2 ch; turn – 1 block made.
Row 2: Ch 6, dc in 4th ch from hook and in next 2 ch, (slip st, ch 3, 3 dc) all in ch-3 space of previous row changing to CB in last dc; turn – 2 blocks made.
Row 3: With CB, ch 6, dc in 4th ch from hook and in next 2 ch, [(slip st, ch 3, 3 dc) all in next ch-3 space of previous row] twice; turn – 3 blocks made.
Row 4: Ch 6, dc in 4th ch from hook and in next 2 ch, [(slip st, ch 3, 3 dc) all in next ch-3 space of previous row] 3 times; turn – 4 blocks made.
Continue in in this manner, increasing 1 block on each row until there are 96 blocks across AND working Stripe pattern as follows: 2 more rows CB, 2 rows CA, [7 rows CC, 2 rows CA, 2 rows CB, 2 rows CA, 7 rows CC, 2 rows CA, 4 rows CB, 2 rows CA] 3 times, 4 rows CC.
Now work in decreasing rows as follows:
Row 97: With CC, slip st across first 3 dc, * (slip st, ch 3,
3 dc) all in next ch-3 space of previous row; repeat from * to last ch-3 space; slip st in last space; turn, do NOT make a block in last space – 95 blocks.
Repeat Row 97 for decreasing block pattern and work
2 more rows with CC, [2 rows CA, 2 rows CB, 2 rows CA, 7 rows CC, 2 rows, CA, 4 rows CB, 2 rows CA, 7 rows CC] 3 times, 2 rows CA, 2 rows CB, 2 rows CA, 2 rows CC –
1 block remains. Fasten off.
Edging: With right side facing, attach CA in same ch-3 space as last slip st; ch 3, 4 dc in same space, * sc in center dc of next block, 3 dc in next ch-3 space or over dc; ch 3, slip st in top of last dc –picot made; 2 dc in same space, sc in center dc of next block, 5 dc in next space; repeat from * to corner; (4 dc, picot, 3 dc) all in corner space; repeat from * around, adjusting if necessary at corners and end of rnd; join with a slip st in top of ch-3. Fasten off. Weave in ends. 

Alternate PICOT:  Worked over: Any number of stitches, depending on how you want to space the bumps (picots).  Finish it: Treat this like a row of SC. After the first stitch, Ch 3, 4, or 5 and slst into first ch (picot made!). Work two, three, or four stitches, then make another picot. Continue working as such, ending with a picot over the second to last SC.

For a 3' x 3' lapghan perfect for hospice or similar facilities, make the Corner-to-Corner pattern with an I hook and 3 Caron cakes.  Each side measures 40 rows to meet size.

Rectangular C2C 

Steps to make a square C2C into a rectangle:

1. Crochet your corner-to-corner square until one straight side is the same length that you want the shorter side of your rectangle to be.
2. Continue crocheting, but alternate increases and decreases each row, always increasing in the same direction and decreasing in the same direction. This keep the straight side the same length that it was while increasing the length of the other side.
3. When your long side has reached the length that you want it to be, decrease as normal.

Granny Diagonal Stripes

Another "Granny" design, essentially three double crochet together, this was for a high school friend and her new bride.

I need to work on this pattern (which is derived from two posts on Zooty Owl Cards.)  I made three rows of each color before changing.

Start with:  5ch
Row 1:  Into 5th ch from hook - 3dc, 1ch, 1dc (first corner formed)

Begin Increasing: 
Row 2:  4ch -  turn; 3dc into 1ch sp; 3dc, 1ch, 1dc into corner space

Row 3:  4ch - turn;   3dc into 1ch sp, 3dc into space between clusters; 3dc, 1ch, 1dc into corner space

Repeat Row 3, increasing on both sides until the outer edges of the triangle are the length and width you desire.  Then decrease on both sides until your last  3dc.

Row ? (begin decrease):  4ch turn; 3dc into next sp between clusters (decrease), 3dc into each subsequent sp up to 2nd last sp; 1ch, 1dc into last sp (decrease - 3rd corner formed)

Repeat until second last row = 1sp, 1 cluster, 1 sp

Final Row:  4ch turn 1dc into sp at end of row.

Fasten off

Rectangular Granny Square Lap Afghan 

Using 5 skeins Lion Brand Thick and Quick Homespun and M hook, ch. 13 for beginning.  I've also started one using Caron Cakes and I hook.  No photo yet.

Making the Core:

Chain 13, 4th Chain from Hook, DC 3 times into the same stitch, *Skip 2 chains, DC 3 times into next. Repeat * to the 3rd chain before the end. Slip Stitch to the 1st chain to create a loop at the end. Middle section of your afghan is now ready to begin doing the regular granny square concept.

Chain 3, 2 DC into the ch-2 gap (partial 1st corner made), Ch 1, (3 DC, Ch 2, 3 DC) into the same ch-2 gap (1st side and 2nd corner made). *Ch 1, 3 DC into the next gap. Repeat from * all the way to the end ch-2 gap (2nd side). In the end gap, 3 DC, CH 2, 3 DC, Ch 1, 3 DC, 2 CH, 3 DC (3rd side and 3rd & 4th corners made). *Ch 1, 3 DC into next gap. Repeat from * along the same side (4th side). 

When you get to the last corner, (partial 1st corner), finish the corner with 3 DC, CH 2, and then slip stitch to the top of the chain 3.

Doing the Rounds:  With each round, the middle sections between the corners get wider. In any Ch-1 Gap Space between the corners, we will always put in 3 DC followed by a Ch 1. Follow the same concepts in step 2 for beginning your round and handling your corners.

Finish your afghan when you get to the size that you desire.

from the Crochet Crowd

Rose Crochet Pattern (for the rose on the upper right)

I love these three different little roses, all made in a variegated Patons yarn.  I can't recall where I found the patterns, except for the rose on the upper right, which I include here.

Using crochet hook size I and worsted weight yarn, chain 51.

Row 1  In second chain from hook sc. Chain 2, skip next chain, sc in next chain.  Repeat  sc, chain 2, skip sc, sc in next chain across.

Row 2  Turn, chain 1. In chain 2 space 3 HD crochet, chain 1, slip stitch (all in chain 2 space). Slip stitch in next chain 2 space, chain 1, 3HD, chain 1, slip stitch. In next chain 2 space, slip stitch, chain 1, 3 HD crochet, chain 1, slip stitch. In remain chain two spaces alternate 4 HD crochet and 5 HD crochet across until end of row. Fasten of and weave in ends.

Crocheted Rainbow Granny Square Minister's Stole

I made this for a friend who was ordained as a UCC minister last weekend.  I tried to find a crochet pattern online but only found some photos.  So I made up my own, with Mama's help with the structure of it (my spatial reasoning is weak sometimes--and this has to drape over shoulders.)  Please note:  I don't usually write patterns, but since I couldn't find one for a stole myself, I wanted to share what I came up with;  this is more of a suggestion of how I did it than an exact pattern. You can use your favorite Granny Square.

skeins of red, orange, yellow, green, blue, purple, and black worsted weight yarn (I used Caron Simply Soft)

H hook

Granny Squares (make 3)

With red yarn, make a magic ring and chain 3.

Round 1 (red):  2dc, *ch 2, 3 dc, ch 2* 3 times, connect with sl st to first dc.  Fasten off (change colors.)

Round 2 (orange):  Attach new color (orange) in ch 2 sp with sl st, ch 3, 2dc, in next three ch 2 sp *3dc, ch 2, 3 dc*, in original ch 2 sp 3 dc, ch 2 and connect to first dc with sl st.  Fasten off (change color.)

Round 3 (yellow):  Attach new color (yellow) in ch 2 sp with sl st, ch 3, 2dc. In spaces between 3dc clusters, 3dc.  In each corner *3dc, ch 2, 3 dc*.  When you return to original ch 1 sp,  3 dc, ch 2 and connect to first dc with sl st.  Fasten off (change color.)

Round 4 (green):  repeat Round 3

Round 5 (blue):  repeat Round 3

Round 6 (purple):  dc in each stitch, and dc, ch2, dc in corner sp.

With one Granny Square (for the back/corner), begin crocheting along one side of the square in black to make the length of the stole (I attached the black with a slip stitch.)  I used a Trinity pattern--3 rows of sc, 1 row of dc--and repeated until I reached the desired length.  Do this twice, using adjoining sides of the Granny Square, so that it forms a "V" or "L" shape.

Attach each of the other two Granny Squares to the other end of the stole lengths using a slip stitch.  Be sure they are facing the correct direction; when the stole is laid flat, the right sides of the all Granny Squares face the same direction so that they drape correctly (in the photo, the stole "arms" have been twisted so that the end squares face front.)

Border the entire stole in black using single crochet.

Weave in all ends and block appropriately.

Mommy Hungry

Three embroidery-hoop mandalas
(the small one actually has 6 rounds, to get that light blue in,
but it is a little loose.)

Tonight's big mandala!

My Embroidery-Hoop Mandala 

inspired by Crocheting with Raymond

·      any size embroidery hoop (wooden or plastic)

·      medium-weight (4) yarn (or any yarn with comparable hook)—I tend to use cotton

·      H hook

This pattern is for variegated yarn, with no yarn changes at each round. 

NOTE:  If you want to change colors with each round, instead of “sl st across dc cluster and sl st into ch 1 sp”, join new color with a sl st into a 1 ch space from previous round and proceed as directed.

Size suggestions:

Small embroidery hoop:  5 rounds

Medium embroidery hoop:  8 rounds

Large embroidery hoop:  11 rounds

When you have completed your desired number of rounds:  Do NOT finish off.  See directions below to attach to hoop

US crochet terms

sc single crochet

dc double crochet

ch chain

sl st slip stitch

dc2tog  double crochet two together

yo yarn over

sp space

FO finish off

Round 1:  Make a magic ring. 3 ch (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc, *ch 1, 2 dc* repeat **  5 times (6 pairs).  Join with a sl st to 3^rd chain of  first 3 ch.  Tighten magic circle.

Round 2: :  sl st across tops of stiches to next ch 1 sp and sl st into ch 1 sp.  Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc, ch 1, dc2tog (same space), *ch 1, in next space dc2tog, ch 1, dc2tog* repeat ** in each ch 1 space until end of round, then ch 1 and join with a sl st into 3^rd ch of ch 3. (6 pairs)

[dc2tog:  yo, insert hook, pull through a loop, yo, pull yarn through 2 loops, yo, insert hook into same stitch, pull through one loop, yo, pull up 2 loops, yo, pull through 3 loops]

Round 3:   sl st across tops of stiches to next ch 1 sp and sl st into ch 1 sp.  Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc in same sp, *ch 1, into next sp 3dc* repeat ** until end of round, then ch 1 and join with a sl st into 3^rd ch of ch 3. (12 sets of 3 dc)

Round 4:  repeat round 3. (12 sets of 3 dc)

Round 5:  sl st across tops of stiches to next ch 1 sp and sl st into ch 1 sp.  Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc in same sp, *ch1, into next space 3dc, ch1, 3dc* repeat ** until end of round, then ch 1 and join with a sl st to 3rd chain of original 3ch. (24 sets of 3 dc)

Round 6:  repeat round 3. (24 sets of 3 dc)

Round 7:  repeat round 3. (24 sets of 3 dc)

Round 8:  sl st across tops of stiches to next ch 1 sp and sl st into ch 1 sp.  Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc in same space, *ch 1, into next space 3dc, ch 1, then into NEXT space 3dc, ch 1, 3dc*, repeat ** until end of round, then ch 1 and join with a sl st to 3rd chain of original 3ch.  (36 sets of 3 dc)

Round 9:  repeat round 3 (36 sets of dc)

Round 10:  repeat round 3.  (36 sets of 3 dc)

Round 11:  repeat round 3.  (36 sets of 3 dc)

Round 12:  sl st across tops of stiches to next ch 1 sp and sl st into ch 1 sp.  Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc in same space, *ch 1, into next space 3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc , ch 1, then into NEXT space 3dc, ch 1, 3dc*, repeat ** until end of round, then ch 1 and join with a sl st to 3rd chain of original 3ch.  Pattern goes 3 dc-ch 1-3dc, ch 1, 3dc, ch 1, 3dc, or increase (3dc-ch 1-3dc), ch 1, 3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc, ch 1, increase . . . 

Round 13:  repeat round 3.

Round 14:  repeat round 3.

Round 15:  repeat round 3.

Round 16: repeat round 12.

To make an even larger mandala (like in a hoola hoop), do three rounds without increase and then increase the next round like round 12.

To attach to hoop:

When your mandala is the size of the inside of your hoop by stretching it a little bit,  it is done (if the mandala is too close to the edge or overlaps the hoop, it will not be tight, leading it to sag or flop.)  It will be harder to crochet around the hoop than a regular row; be patient.  Your mandala will stretch as you go and you can adjust by sliding stitches around to make it more even.

Separate your embroidery hoops and use only the inside hoop (you can do both; I like the look of doing just one so that the outside edge is just wood.) Hold mandala near the hoop and then insert the hook through a ch 1 space under the rim of the hoop, as if you are treating the hoop as the top of the ch 1 sp.  Then sc by drawing  up a long loop over the top of the hoop and completing the stitch.  Then ch 1.

*sc, ch 1* around the hoop and repeat until end of round. 

Loop:  Then ch 10 or 20 and sl st to first ch stitch to create a loop.  FO.

Mommy Hungry

Waffle Stitch Blanket

Waffle Stitch Blanket (using American crochet terms)

I Hook

Worsted yarn

dc: double crochet

fpdc: front post double crochet (yo, insert front to back around whole stitch, pull through, yo, pull through 2 on hook, yo, pull through rest on hook)

Chain 137 (or any multiple of 3+2)

ROW 1: dc in 3^rd chain from hook and all the way across. Ch 1 and turn.

ROW 2: dc in first stitch. *fpdc, dcI in next 2 st * until last stitch.  Work FPDC in last stitch and dc in ch.  Ch 1 and turn. 

ROW 3: dc in first stich.  *dc, fpdc in next 2 st* repeat to last two stitches. Work dc in last two stitches.  Ch 1 and turn. 

Repeat ROWS 2 and 3 until blanket is desired length. Be sure to end on a row 2 for a neat edge.

Tulip Stitch Blanket

Ch a multiple of 4

Row  1: Dc in 3rd ch from hook, ch 2, sc in next ch * skip 2 chs. 2 dc in next ch, ch 2, sc in next ch. Repeat from * across. Turn

Row 2: Ch 2, Skip 1st st. (2 dc, ch 2, sc) in ch 2 sp. *Skip 3 sts. (2 dc, ch 2, sc) in ch 2 sp. Repeat from * across. Turn.

Repeat row 2 until project is desired size

http://theunraveledmitten.com/2017/05/19/tulip-stitch/?utm_medium=social&utm_source=pinterest&utm_campaign=tailwind_tribes&utm_content=tribes

COMING SOON:

  Granny Mandala from Crochet with Raymond

12-Round Mandala by Marinke

 Ellipse Blanket by Mitt Livsverk--making another blanket for our cat Mojito.

 Sunny Granny Stripe CAL with Attic24--I loved doing this blanket, with its lovely colors (Stylecraft DK)--and it's for me!  It's an easy 3dc stripe, with a lovely Spot On border.

Cosy Stripe--Another Attic24 blanket, which I did in spectrum order, not her more random order.  It is a series of alternating stripes--in double crochet (treble in the pattern, because she's British) and in granny clusters of three double crochet

6-Day Kids' Blanket

This is OTH ("on the hook")--a WIP ("work in progress")--from Betty McKnit on Ravelry.  I'm using Caron Cakes, with 139 chain (136 + 3) and an I hook.  Picture coming soon.

My Paternal Grandmother's Rainbow Afghan

Each Granny Square:

Rnd 1: Working in rainbow variegated yarn, ch 4, join with sl st to first ch made to form ring. Ch 5 (counts as 1 dc + 2 chs),*work 3 dc in ring, ch 2, rep from *twice more, work 2 dc in ring; join with a sl st to 3rd ch of beg ch-5. (four ch-2 corners) DO NOT TURN WORK.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sl st into next ch-2 sp, ch 5, work 3 dc in this ch-2 sp, *ch 1(3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp, rep from * twice more, work 2 dc in final ch-2 sp (which is right beside the beg ch-5); join with sl st to 3rd ch of beg ch-5.

Rnd 3: Ch 1, sl st into next ch-2 sp, ch 5, work 3 dc in this ch-2 sp, *work 3dc in next sp (side), work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp (corner), rep from * twice more, work 3 dc in next sp (side), work 2 dc in final ch-2 sp (which is right beside the beg ch-5); join with sl st to 3rd ch of beg ch-5. 

Rnd 4: Working in black, Ch 1, sl st into next ch-2 sp, ch 5, work 3 dc in this ch-2 sp, *work 3dc in next sp (side), work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp (corner), rep from * twice more, work 3 dc in next sp (side), work 2 dc in final ch-2 sp (which is right beside the beg ch-5); join with sl st to 3rd ch of beg ch-5. Finish off.

Make as many squares as needed for size desired.

To put together:  

Arrange squares on a diagonal, so that there is a zigzag edge.

I believe it is pieced together with a sewn seam (essentially, lay with squares right side facing and lace up like shoes, working through the stitches back to front.  Pull to draw together.)

Edging:  *Work 2 dc in each ch-2 sp, ch 3* repeat, (work 6 dc in corners)

My Maternal Grandmother's Gray Scrap Granny Square Afghan

Each Granny Square:

Rnd 1: Working in colored yarn, ch 4, join with sl st to first ch made to form ring. Ch 5 (counts as 1 dc + 2 chs),*work 4 dc in ring, ch 2, rep from *twice more, work 3 dc in ring; join with a sl st to 3rd ch of beg ch-5. (four ch-2 corners) DO NOT TURN WORK.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sl st into next ch-2 sp, ch 5, work 3 dc in this ch-2 sp, *ch 1(3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp, rep from * twice more, work 2 dc in final ch-2 sp (which is right beside the beg ch-5); join with sl st to 3rd ch of beg ch-5.

Rnd 3: Ch 1, sl st into next ch-2 sp, ch 5, work 3 dc in this ch-2 sp, *work 3dc in next sp (side), work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp (corner), rep from * twice more, work 3 dc in next sp (side), work 2 dc in final ch-2 sp (which is right beside the beg ch-5); join with sl st to 3rd ch of beg ch-5. 

 Rnd 4: (This is confusing) Working in gray, dc in top of first and third dc, ch 3, and repeat.  Finish off.

Make as many squares as needed for size desired.

 To put together:  

Afghan is a giant rectangle.  I believe it is pieced together with a sewn seam (essentially, lay with squares right side facing and lace up like shoes, working through the stitches back to front.  Pull to draw together.)

Traditional shell edging (*sc, skip 1 sp, 4 dc, skip 1* repeat, with a ch round outlining (around shell:  begin in any space, sc with chosen yarn, ch 3, sc in next sp, repeat until end, sl st together and finish off.)

Other Edgings (see here):

CRAB:  The crab stitch is utilized as a corded edging. It’s a subtle and sophisticated finish that will be the easiest to memorize and use.

Worked over: any number of stitches
Finish it: Work an odd number of rows (at least one) of single crochet. At the end, do not turn — CH 1, skip the stitch directly to the RIGHT and reverse single crochet (rev SC*) into each SC, ending with a sl  st in the turning chain of the previous row. Fasten off.

Worked in the round: sl st into first SC, Ch 1, then continue as for working flat, ending with a slst into first rev SC.

*rev SC (worked from left to right): Insert hook in next stitch to the right, yarn over, pull loop through, yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.

BLANKET:  This stitch is called the blanket edge because it resembles the blanket stitch in embroidery. It’s a simple stitch that looks best in a contrasting color.

Worked over: Any number of stitches.
Finish it: This stitch utilizes the spike SC. Space them to suit the number of stitches you have in the row or round.

For example (multiple of 4 stitches + 3):
Ch 1, SC in first 3 stitches, *1 SC in next stitch by inserting your hook about 1/4″ below the edge, 1 SC in each of the next 3 stitches; Rep from * to end. Fasten off. You can make the spikes longer by inserting your hook lower in the main piece.