Summer Fun: Cooking with Mama

Mama has done it again:  she has had a glorious day helping the kids to make some of their favorite foods.   About a year ago, it was linguine with clam sauce and chicken marsala.  Today, Bud made beer-steamed mussels with bacon and garlic, while Sis made fried chicken.  Mercy, they eat well!  And they have such fun and pride doing it.

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Beer-Steamed Mussels with Bacon and Garlic
(from a NYTimes recipe for clams)

100 littleneck clams (Mama substituted 2 lbs mussels)1 tablespoon unsalted butter¼ cup diced chorizo or bacon, optional2 cups beer, approximately 1 can or bottle

1. Carefully scrub the clams under cold running water to remove sand and grit, then set aside.
2. Melt the butter in a large pot set over medium heat, and when it foams, add the chorizo or bacon, and allow it to crisp, stirring occasionally, approximately 5 minutes.
3. Add the beer to the pot (use just 1 cup if cooking 50 or fewer clams), and allow to heat through, then carefully add the clams in layers. Cover the pot, and allow the clams to steam and open, approximately 10 to 12 minutes. Serve in the pot, or use tongs or a slotted spoon to remove clams to a platter, and serve alongside a bowl of the remaining clam broth and melted butter.

Fried Chicken from Southern Living a la the NYTimes

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon salt
1 chicken with skin, about 2 1/2 pounds, cut up into 8 pieces (see note)
1 teaspoon black pepper
1 cup all-purpose flour
2 cups vegetable oil, like grapeseed, peanut or canola (do not use olive oil)
¼ cup bacon drippings (or use more oil)

1. Combine 1 tablespoon salt with 3 quarts water in a large bowl or container. Add chicken, cover and refrigerate 8 hours or overnight. Drain, rinse with cold water and pat dry. 
2. Stir together remaining 1 teaspoon salt and the black pepper. Sprinkle half the mixture evenly over chicken. 
3. In a large sealable plastic bag, combine remaining pepper mixture and flour. Add 2 pieces chicken to bag and shake well to coat. Remove chicken pieces, shaking off extra flour, and set aside. Repeat with remaining chicken. 
4. Take a large (10- or 12-inch) cast-iron skillet or chicken fryer, for which you have a lid, and fit with a candy or deep-frying thermometer. Add oil and bacon drippings and heat to 360 degrees over medium heat; the oil will ripple and possibly give off a few wisps of smoke. 
5. Using tongs, immediately add chicken pieces, skin side down (work in batches if necessary to avoid crowding pan). The oil will drop to about 325 degrees, where it should stay; adjust heat so that oil is bubbling gently around the pieces. Cover and cook 6 minutes; uncover and cook 9 minutes. Turn chicken pieces; cover and cook 6 minutes. Uncover and cook another 5 to 9 minutes, depending on size of pieces. If necessary for even browning, turn pieces over a few times toward the end. 
6. Drain on paper towels or paper bags. Let cool at least 20 minutes before serving. 

Tip

• If chicken is larger than 2 1/2 pounds, use a large heavy knife to cut each breast half in half again, making 10 pieces in total.

Mama's Cooking Lessons

For days, Mama and the kids have been discussing "Mama's cooking lessons."  First, they chose the food.  Sis wanted chicken marsala and Bud chose linguine with clam sauce (we put him off from making sushi the first time.)  Mama researched and compared recipes, eventually choosing both of them from Cook's Illustrated--an actual cookbook!

Then they discussed why they were doing this.  While I have long considered giving the kids basic cooking lessons--you know, scrambled eggs, meatballs, chicken cutlets--so that they are competent in the kitchen, Mama's plan was grander and more philosophical, inspired by the introduction of Michael Pollan's Cooked.  She wanted them to learn that cooking is an art to be appreciated, not to be lost.   That homecooking can be great food, not just what we serve on weeknights--the best food doesn't have to come from a restaurant.  She specifically had them choose their favorite restaurant meal so they could see that it could be done at home and the work that goes into certain meals.  Mostly, she wanted them to be proud that they could make great food that they like and have fun with her while doing it.

And she definitely succeeded.  They gladly shopped with her at the liquor store and Whole Foods, getting everything they need.  Sis even pushed her own cart!  It was clams first, because they're more perishable.  Bud beamed as he scrubbed clams and checked to make sure they were alive (even though I was making screaming little clam noises!  Yes, mean vegetarian.)  And then together they followed every direction.  Sis and I set the table as they finished preparations (having played Break the Ice before that), even lighting a candle.  Bud relished the entire meal, as did Mama.  Sis and I praised him but skipped the actual dinner, leaving more for them. He smiled through the whole thing.  I did the dishes.

The next day, it was Sis's turn.  And she was just as excited and proud, even though the recipe had many steps.  She even cut the mushrooms all by herself, with the big knife, getting safety instructions from Mama.  There was one snag--the flour in the pan started to burn, quickly and unexpectedly--but Mama switched skillets and aired out the house, with no negative affect on the meal; besides, that was a good lesson that sometimes, even following directions, things can go haywire and also that you can usually fix them (they've already seen meals ruined--and know to dial for pizza!)   Soon the scent of sweet Marsala wafted through the house, enticing Bud and I to come to the kitchen (after playing both Break the Ice and air hockey) to set the table early.  Again we lit a candle and enjoyed the special meal.

And now the kids can't wait for their next lesson.  Bud still really wants sushi.  Sis is undecided.

I want cheesecake!

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Pasta with Fresh Clam Sauce
4 lbs littleneck clams, scrubbed (discard those that won't close while scrubbing)
1/2 cup dry white wine (Sauvignon Blanc here)
pinch of cayenne pepper
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 garlic cloves, minced
salt and pepper
1 lb linguine
3/4 cup parsley optional

Bring clams, wine, and cayenne to boil , cover, and cook, shaking pan occasionally, for 5 minutes.  Stir clams thoroughly, cover, and continue to cook until they just begin to open, 2-5 minutes.  As clams open, remove them with slotted spoon and transfer them to bowl.  Discard any unopened.

Drain steaming liquid through strainer lined with coffee filter, avoiding any gritty sediment that has settled on bottom of pan.  Measure out and reserve 1 cup of liquid (adding water to make a cup if necessary).  Wipe out skillet with paper towels.

Heat oil and garlic in pan over medium heat.  Cook, stirring often, until garlic turns golden but not brown, about 3 minutes.  Stir in littlenecks, cover, and cook until all calms are completely opened, about 2 minutes.

Meanwhile, make pasta according to package.  Drain pasta and return it to pot.  Add sauce and reserved clam steaming liquid to pasta and cook, tossing to combine, about 30 seconds.  Stir in parsley and salt and pepper.  Serve immediately.

adapted from Cook's Illustrated

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Chicken Marsala
 4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts (tenderloins removed), trimmed
1 cup flour
salt and pepper
1/4 cup vegetable oil
2 1/2 oz pancette, cut into 1" x 1/8" long
8 oz white mushrooms, trimmed and thinly sliced
1 garlic clove, minced
1 teaspoon tomato paste
1 1/2 cup sweet Marsala wine
4 1/2 teaspoons lemon juice
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, in 4 pieces, chilled
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

Adjust oven rack to middle and preheat oven to 200F.  Halve chicken horizontally, then cover with plastic wrap and pound to 1/4" thickness.  Place flour in shallow dish.

Pat chicken dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper.  Working with 1 cutlet at a time, dredge in flour, shake off excess, and transfer to large plate.

Heat 2 tablespoons oil  in skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering.  Place 4 cutlets in skillet and cook until golden brown on first side, about 3 minutes.  Flip cutlets, reduce to medium, and cook until no longer pink and lightly browned on second side, about 2 minutes longer; transfer to large oven safe platter.  Wipe out skillet.  Repeat.

Cook pancetta in skillet, stirring occasionally and scraping up browned bits, until crisp, about 5 minutes.  Remove pancetta with slotted spoon and transfer to paper towel-lined plated.  Add mushrooms to now-empty skillet, increase heat to medium-high, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and lightly browned, about 8 minutes.  Stir in garlic, tomato paste, and pancetta and cook until paste begins to brown, about 1 minute.  Off heat, stir in Marsala,, scraping up any browned bits.  Return to high heat, bring to vigorous simmer, and cook, stirring occasionally, until  sauce is thickened and measures 1 1/4 cups, about 5 minutes.  Off heat, stir in lemon juice and any accumulated chicken juices.  Whisk in butter, 1 pat at a time.  Stir in parsley and salt and pepper.  Pour sauce over chicken and serve immediately.

Cook's Illustrated